Tatiana Santana Balogh

Proteção à radiação ultravioleta: recursos disponíveis na atualidade em fotoproteção

Ultraviolet radiation can damage the DNA, cause immunosuppression, chemical and histological alterations in the epidermis, early photoaging, cataracts and carcinogenesis, among others. Photoprotection prevents these and other harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. Sunscreens, protective clothing, proper accessories and safe sun exposure are essential photoprotection tools. The main forms of photoprotection are presented and discussed in this article, including sunscreens containing organic and inorganic filters, the assessment of their efficacy and current developments on the topic.

UVA I-protection effectiveness of bioactive compound and organic UV filters: an in vitro assessment

This research work aimed at determining the UVA effectiveness (UVA I/UV ratio), by diffuse transmittance analysis, of sunscreens developed with a bioactive substance, the rutin, associating or not with organic UVB-UVA filters incorporated at a phosphate-base O/W emulsion. Sunscreens provided conflicting and unpredictable results concerning the anti-UVA protection, specially, at the UVA I region. Possible interactions among the organic UV filters and the polyphenolic bioactive substance may have accounted with improvement or reduction of UV protection by a complex and not yet elucidated mechanism, probably regarding wavelength delocalization to superior or inferior values, by resonant molecule stabilization or destabilization.

Study of sunless tanning formulas using molted snake skin as an alternative membrane model

Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin cancer. Most sunless tanners currently on the market contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a keto sugar with three carbons. The temporary pigment provided by these formulasis designed to resemble a UV‐induced tan. This study evaluated the effectiveness of carbomer gels and cold process self emulsifying bases on skin pigmentation, using different concentrations of a chemical system composed of DHA and N‐acetyl tyrosine, which are found in moulted snake skins and their effectiveness was tested by Mexameter® MX 18. Eight different sunless tanning formulas were developed, four of which were gels and four of which were emulsions (base, base plus 4.0%, 5.0% and 6.0% (w/w) of a system of DHA and N‐acetyl tyrosine). Tests to determine the extent of artificial tanning were done by applying 30 mg cm−2 of each formula onto standard sizes of moulted snake skin (2.0 cm × 3.0 cm). A Mexameter® MX 18 was used to evaluate the extent of coloration in the moulted snake skin at T0 (before the application) and after 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 and 216 h. The moulted snake skins can be used as an alternative membrane model for in vitro sunless tanning efficacy tests due to their similarity to the human stratum corneum. The DHA concentration was found to influence the initiation of the pigmentation in both sunless tanning systems (emulsion and gel) as well as the time required to increases by a given amount on the tanning index. In the emulsion system, the DHA concentration also influenced the final value on the tanning index. The type of system (emulsion or gel) has no influence on the final value in the tanning index after 216 h for samples with the same DHA concentration.

Influence of Brazilian vegetable oils on mechanical resistence of hair fiber: Influência de óleos vegetais brasileiros na resistência mecânica da fibra capilar

Associating the global trend of incorporating active compounds and plants in cosmetic formulations and the vast Brazilian biodiversity, the present work aimed to study the incorporation of Brazilian vegetable oils in hair conditioner formulations, evaluating the mechanical resistance of hair fibers. The following oils were incorporated into base formulations at 5.0 % (w/w): babassu, buriti, andiroba and pequi. The formulations were applied to samples of Caucasian hair, followed by several washing steps, then the evaluation of mechanical strength. It was found that there was no statistically significant difference in mechanical resistance between samples treated with oils and the control between the first and seventh wash cycles. This fact can be explained by the possible low penetration of oils into the cortex, a region responsible for the mechanical properties of the hair fiber, since the grease composition disfavors its diffusion. The common effects of vegetable oils on the cuticle, such as filling in cracks or cavities, lubrication, and increased protein hydrophobicity cannot be excluded. The oils tested in this work were not able to raise or protect hair tresses. However, additional studies are required in order to establish the effects of oil treatments, particularly in damaged hair.