Tabitha Dickson

Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing.

Abstract Level of ability within rock climbing is generally expressed in terms of a “best ascent”, rated using various grading systems within the sport. The most common method of obtaining this information is via self-report. The aim of this study was to examine the validity of self-reported climbing grades. Twenty-nine competitive rock climbers (17 males, 12 females) were first asked to report their current (defined as within the last 12 months) best on-sight lead ascent grade (Aus/NZ). The participants then climbed a specifically designed indoor route, under on-sight conditions (one attempt, no route practice or preview), to obtain an assessed grade. The route increased in difficulty, and was such that the distance achieved by the climber corresponded to a particular grade. The mean (±standard deviation) self-reported and assessed grade was 22.6 ± 3.4 and 22.0 ± 3.0 (Aus/NZ) respectively. Despite slight over- and underestimations in males and females respectively, there was no statistically significant difference between self-reported and assessed on-sight climbing grades. The results of this study suggest that self-reported climbing grades provide a valid and accurate reflection of climbing ability.

Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing

Rock climbing is an increasingly popular adventure sport with a growing research base. To date the growth of research and reporting styles has been somewhat haphazard and as a consequence comparison between studies can be problematic. The aim of this paper was to make suggestions about a number of changes that could be made to improve the consistency in reporting between studies. Included with this paper are two new tables, one each for male and female climbers. These provide comparative grading scales for use in reporting for future studies. These tables also provide a suggested framework for grouping climbers according to their ability. Using the tables researchers could group the climbers in their study by a category name (lower grade, intermediate, advanced, elite or higher elite climber) or by a number (level 1-5). In addition, the authors make recommendations about climber characteristics that could usefully be reported in future to assist comparison between studies. It would be helpful to readers if the self-reported, highest lead climbs (on-sight and redpoint) could be reported for a climbing group, along with the types of climbing regularly undertaken.

A psychophysiological comparison of on-sight lead and top rope ascents in advanced rock climbers.

Research suggests that lead climbing is both physiologically and psychologically more stressful than top rope climbing for intermediate performers. This observation may not be true for advanced climbers, who train regularly on lead routes and are accustomed to leader falls. The aim of this study was to compare the psychophysiological stresses of lead and top rope on‐sight ascents in advanced rock climbers. Twenty‐one climbers (18 men and three women) ascended routes near or at the best of their ability (22 Ewbank). Psychological stress was measured preclimb using the Revised Comparative State Anxiety Inventory (CSAI‐2R). Plasma cortisol was sampled at six intervals. The volume of oxygen (VO2) and heart rate (Hr) were measured throughout the climbs. No significant differences were found in self‐confidence, somatic, or cognitive anxiety between the conditions lead and top rope. No significant differences in plasma cortisol concentration were found between any time points. No significant relationships were found between cortisol and any CSAI‐2R measures. No significant differences were found between conditions for VO2 or blood lactate concentration. During the lead climb, Hr was significantly elevated during the last part of the route. Findings suggest that advanced rock climbers do not find lead climbing to be more stressful than top rope climbing during an on‐sight ascent.

Plasma Cortisol Concentrations and Perceived Anxiety in Response to On-Sight Rock Climbing

Previous research suggested plasma cortisol concentrations in response to rock climbing have a cubic relationship with state anxiety and self-confidence. This research, however, was conducted in a situation where the climbers had previously climbed the route. The purpose of our study was to examine this relationship in response to on-sight climbing. Nineteen (13 male, 6 female) intermediate climbers volunteered to attend anthropometric and baseline testing sessions, prior to an on-sight ascent (lead climb or top-rope) of the test climb (grade 19 Ewbank/6a sport/5.10b YDS). Data recorded included state anxiety, self-confidence and cortisol concentrations prior to completing the climb. Results indicated that there were no significant differences in state anxiety, self-confidence and plasma cortisol concentration regardless of the style of ascent (lead climb or top-rope) in an on-sight sport climbing context. Regression analysis indicated there was a significant linear relationship between plasma cortisol concentrations and self-confidence (r= - 0.52, R2=0.267, p=0.024), cognitive (r=0.5, R2=0.253, p=0.028), and somatic anxieties (r=0.46, R2=0.210, p=0.049). In an on-sight condition the relationships between plasma cortisol concentrations with anxiety (cognitive and somatic) and self-confidence were linear.

The effect of technique and ability on the VO2–heart rate relationship in rock climbing

Previous studies have speculated that the disproportionate rise in heart rate for a given VO2 may be due to anxiety, increased time spent in isometric contraction and the possible presence of the metaboreflex. The current study measured time spent in isometric contraction, rest time, pre-climb anxiety, heart rate and VO2 responses in advanced (n = 11) and intermediate (n = 11) rock climbers performing at or near their maximum self-reported on-sight grade (19/22 Ewbank). Results showed a non-significant difference (p>0.05) between groups for climb time, pre-climb heart rate and state anxiety. Throughout the majority of the climbs, it was observed that the intermediate groups heart rate per VO2 ratio was significantly greater (p < 0.05) than that seen in the advanced group. Advanced climbers spent a significantly greater period of time (p < 0.05) in an isometric position but interestingly spent a significantly greater period of time (p < 0.05) shaking out and actively resting the arms. It would appear that pre-climb anxiety played no part in the disproportionate rise in heart rate per VO2. However, the significantly increased rest time (p < 0.05) and the ability to make tactical route decisions may have increased recovery forearm blood flow, reducing metabolites and the presence of the metaboreflex.

Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers

Abstract Currently, the physiological mechanisms that allow elite level climbers to maintain intense isometric contractions for prolonged periods of time are unknown. Furthermore, it is unclear whether blood flow or muscle oxidative capacity best governs performance. This study aimed to determine the haemodynamic kinetics of 2 forearm flexor muscles in 3 ability groups of rock climbers. Thirty-eight male participants performed a sustained contraction at 40% of maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) until volitional fatigue. Oxygen saturation and blood flow was assessed using near infrared spectroscopy and Doppler ultrasound. Compared to control, intermediate, and advanced groups, the elite climbers had a significantly (P < 0.05) higher strength-to-weight ratio (MVC/N), de-oxygenated the flexor digitorum profundus significantly (P < 0.05) more (32, 34.3, and 42.8 vs. 63% O2, respectively), and at a greater rate (0.32, 0.27, and 0.34 vs. 0.77 O2%·s−1, respectively). Furthermore, elite climbers de-oxygenated the flexor carpi radialis significantly (P < 0.05) more and at a greater rate than the intermediate group (36.5 vs. 14.6% O2 and 0.43 vs. 0.1O2%·s−1, respectively). However, there were no significant differences in total forearm ∆ blood flow. An increased MVC/N is not associated with greater blood flow occlusion in elite climbers; therefore, oxidative capacity may be more important for governing performance.

Oxygen Recovery Kinetics in the Forearm Flexors of Multiple Ability Groups of Rock Climbers

Abstract Fryer, SM, Stoner, L, Dickson, TG, Draper, SB, McCluskey, MJ, Hughes, JD, How, SC, and Draper, N. Oxygen recovery kinetics in the forearm flexors of multiple ability groups of rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 29(6): 1633–1639, 2015—The purpose of this study was to determine muscle tissue oxidative capacity and recovery in intermediate, advanced, and elite rock climbers. Forty-four male participants performed (a) sustained and (b) intermittent contractions at 40% of maximal volitional contraction (MVC) on a sport-specific fingerboard until volitional fatigue. Near-infrared spectroscopy was used to assess muscle tissue oxygenation during both the exercise and the 5-minutes passive recovery period, in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and flexor carpi radialis (FCR). During the sustained contraction only, muscle tissue deoxygenation (O2 debt) in the FDP and FCR was significantly greater in elite climbers compared with the control, intermediate, and advanced groups (FDP: 32 vs. 15, 19, 22%; FCR: 19 vs. 11, 8, 15%, respectively). However, elite climbers had a significantly quicker time to half recovery (T1/2) than the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 95 and 47 seconds, respectively) and the FCR (7 vs. 30 and 97 seconds, respectively) because the O2% recovered per second being significantly greater (FDP: 4.2 vs. 0.7 and 0.3; FCR: 4.8 vs. 0.1 and 0.2, respectively). Furthermore, during the intermittent contraction, T1/2 in elite climbers was significantly quicker compared with the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 93 and 83 seconds, respectively) and FCR (16 vs. 76 and 50 seconds, respectively). Consequently, lower-level climbers should focus training on specific intermittent fatigue protocols. Competition or elite climbers should make use of appropriate rests on route to aid recovery and increase the chances of reaching the next hold.

Effect of style of ascent on the psychophysiological demands of rock climbing in elite level climbers

The aim of this study was to examine the physiological and psychological responses to an on-sight lead in comparison to an on-sight top rope ascent in elite level rock climbers. Fifteen (14 male, 1 female) rock climbers took part in the study, and were included based on having a self reported on-sight ability of ≥ 25 (Ewbank). Climbers attended three separate testing sessions; a maximum oxygen uptake test (VO2max), baseline session, and an attempt at one randomly assigned climb (lead or top rope) at the limit of their ability on an indoor artificial climbing wall. Before climbing perception of anxiety (Revised Competitive State Anxiety Inventory-2), blood lactate and plasma cortisol concentration were measured. Climb time, heart rate, oxygen consumption (VO2), blood lactate, plasma cortisol concentration and task load (National Aeronautics and Space Administration Task Load Index) were measured in response to the climb. Results indicated there were no significant differences in levels of somatic or cognitive anxiety, coupled with non-significant differences in plasma cortisol concentrations measured at various intervals during the climbing trial. Despite a 32 second difference in climb time between lead and top rope ascents there were no significant differences in blood lactate concentration, total average heart rate and VO2 between climbs. When reviewing VO2 averaged at each clipping point, lead climb VO2 was significantly lower at clips 1, 3 and 5 (P < 0.05). Task load was reportedly similar, with no significant differences in physical and mental demand between climbs. Our results indicate that the physiological and psychological responses of elite level climbers do not differ for lead and top rope on-sight ascents.

Performance differences for intermediate rock climbers who successfully and unsuccessfully attempted an indoor sport climbing route

As a popular recreational and competitive adventure sport the research base for rock climbing has developed in parallel with the growth of the sport. To date researchers have not attempted to explain the performance differences between those who successfully complete an ascent of a route and those who fall en-route. The aim of our study was to identify factors contributing to a successful or unsuccessful ascent of an indoor sport climbing route. Eighteen intermediate level climbers attempted an onsight ascent of a grade 19 Ewbank scale (5.10b YDS, 6a Sport) climb as either a lead climb or top rope. Results indicated that general climbing experience and number of years lead climbing significantly affected success on the route and appeared to provide successful climbers with a greater feeling of self confidence prior to ascent (p < 0.05). This resulted in significantly lower time taken at key points on the route and a lower heart rate throughout for the successful climbers (p < 0.05). Our findings suggest that prior experience plays a significant role in the successful climbing performance for intermediate level climbers in an on-sight context, regardless of whether lead climbing or top roping.

Comparison of lactate sampling sites for rock climbing.

Comparisons of capillary blood lactate concentrations pre and post climb have featured in the protocols of many rock climbing studies, with most researchers obtaining samples from the fingertip. The nature of rock climbing, however, places a comparatively high physiological loading on the foreaand fingertips. Indeed, the fingertips are continually required for gripping and this makes pre-climb sampling at this site problematic. The purpose of our study was to examine differences in capillary blood lactate concentrations from samples taken at the fingertip and first (big) toe in a rock climbing context. 10 participants (9 males and 1 female) completed climbing bouts at 3 different angles (91°, 100° and 110°). Capillary blood samples were taken simultaneously from the fingertip and first toe pre and post climb. A limit of agreement plot revealed all data points to be well within the upper and lower bounds of the 95% population confidence interval. Subsequent regression analysis revealed a strong relationship (R (2)=0.94, y=0.940x + 0.208) between fingertip and first toe capillary blood lactate concentrations. Findings from our study suggest that the toe offers a valid alternative site for capillary blood lactate concentration analysis in a rock climbing context.