Clara Barba

Bicelles: Lipid Nanostructured Platforms with Potential Dermal Applications

Bicelles emerge as promising membrane models, and because of their attractive combination of lipid composition, small size and morphological versatility, they become new targets in skin research. Bicelles are able to modify skin biophysical parameters and modulate the skins barrier function, acting to enhance drug penetration. Because of their nanostructured assemblies, bicelles have the ability to penetrate through the narrow intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum of the skin to reinforce its lipid lamellae. The bicelle structure also allows for the incorporation of different molecules that can be carried through the skin layers. All of these characteristics can be modulated by varying the lipid composition and experimental conditions. The remarkable versatility of bicelles is their most important characteristic, which makes their use possible in various fields. This system represents a platform for dermal applications. In this review, an overview of the main properties of bicelles and their effects on the skin are presented.

Photodamage determination of human hair.

Sunlight on human hair causes photo-degradation. This results in bleaching due to melanin oxidation through free radicals, and induces keratin impairment. Protein degradation, tryptophan degradation, lipidic peroxidation and electron paramagnetic resonance can be used to evaluate proteic and lipidic photodecomposition and free radical formation in hair fibres subjected to antioxidant action and different UV intensities. All these methodologies have been optimised to determine protein, lipid and melanin degradation in hair subjected to different UV intensities.

Lipid Nanostructures: Self-Assembly and Effect on Skin Properties

This work evaluates the relation between the composition and the self-assembly of some lipid aggregates with their effects on the skin. To this end, liposomes, bicelles and micelles formed by dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC), dimyristoylphosphatidylcholine (DMPC) and dihexanoylphosphatidylcholine (DHPC) were characterized by electron microscopy and dynamic light scattering techniques, and applied on the skin. The results revealed that nanostructures with similar assembly but different composition caused different effects on the skin parameters. In general, samples containing DMPC affected the barrier function to a greater extent than systems containing DPPC. Additionally, our results showed that samples with the same lipid composition but different assembly exerted different effects on the skin. Liposomes decreased or did not modify the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), while bicelles and micelles increased this parameter. Hydration of the skin diminished especially after the application of micellar and bicellar samples. In vitro experiments showed structures like vesicles inside cutaneous SC (stratum corneum) incubated with DPPC/DHPC bicelles. These structures were not detected in SC samples incubated with DMPC/DHPC bicelles probably due to the different thermotropic behavior of DMPC and DPPC at physiological temperatures. Results reported in this work should be considered in terms of design of more efficient and specific skin delivery systems.

Cosmetic effectiveness of topically applied hydrolysed keratin peptides and lipids derived from wool

Background/purpose: Skin moisturisation, elasticity, feel and appearance can all be improved through the topical application of protein hydrolysates. Recent studies suggest that supplementing intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum can enhance the functioning of the skin.

Efficacy of antioxidants in human hair

Hair is exposed every day to a range of harmful effects such as sunlight, pollution, cosmetic treatments, grooming practices and cleansing. The UV components of sunlight damage human hair, causing fibre degradation. UV-B attacks the melanin pigments and the protein fractions (keratin) of hair and UV-A produces free radical/reactive oxygen species (ROS) through the interaction of endogenous photosensitizers. Hair was dyed and the efficacy of two antioxidant formulations was demonstrated after UV exposure by evaluating, surface morphology, protein and amino acid degradation, lipidic peroxidation, colour and shine changes and strength/relaxation properties. UV treatment resulted in an increase in protein and lipid degradation, changes in colour and shine and in adverse consequences for the mechanical properties. Natural antioxidants obtained from artichoke and rice applied to pretreated hair improved mechanical properties and preserved colour and shine of fibres, coating them and protecting them against UV. Furthermore, the lipidic peroxidation of the protein degradation caused by UV was reduced for some treated fibres, suggesting an improvement in fibre integrity. This was more marked in the case of the fibres treated using the artichoke extract, whereas the rice extract was better preserving shine and colour of hair fibres.

Antioxidative effects and percutaneous absorption of five polyphenols.

A new strategy was designed to evaluate the antioxidant effectiveness of five topically applied polyphenols following skin penetration profiles. The antioxidants were the following polyphenol derivatives: epicatechin, resveratrol, rutin, quercetin, and trolox, which was used as the reference antioxidant. The hydrophilic/lipophilic character of these compounds was evaluated, and their antioxidant activity was measured by the DPPH method. The percutaneous absorption of these polyphenols was obtained by an in vitro methodology using porcine skin biopsies. This methodology involves the quantification of the antioxidants present in each specific skin layer to evaluate antioxidant effectiveness. The antioxidant activity in each skin layer was also determined by the DPPH method. The results indicated that lipophilic antioxidants (epicatechin, resveratrol, quercetin, and trolox) penetrated deeper into the skin layers, whereas a more hydrophilic compound, rutin, remained on the skin surface. The antioxidant evaluation of each skin compartment suggested that resveratrol and rutin were the most effective topically applied compounds in view of their antioxidant activity and their skin penetration profile.

An ex vivo methodology to assess the lipid peroxidation in stratum corneum

Environmental risks, particularly UV radiation, provide a challenge to the function of the skin barrier. Protective measures such as the use of antioxidant products represent a possible method of providing protection to the skin. This paper reports the development of a non-invasive ex vivo method using tape strips of the outermost layers of stratum corneum (SC) from human volunteers in order to determine the effectiveness of an antioxidant emulsion topically applied to prevent lipid peroxidation (LPO) in the horny layer after an UV irradiation exposure. Two different formulations were used: formulation (A), containing Vitamin A, E and C, and formulation (B) containing fish extract. Both formulations were topically applied in vivo on volunteer forearms; then, a tape stripping of the SC of each volunteer was carried out. The lipid peroxidation was measured ex vivo after an UV irradiation of the SC samples. The amount of SC stripped to evaluate differences in lipid peroxidation, the UV irradiation intensity to form lipid peroxides and the accuracy of lipid peroxide analysis were optimized in this methodology using formulation (A). After an exposure application of seven days, a group of three strips of the outermost layers of SC of volunteers was irradiated with an intensity of 182.7 J/cm(2) to quantify the LPO inhibition. The percentage of LPO inhibition obtained after topical application of both formulations was in the range of 40-58% demonstrating the effectiveness of the formulations topically applied against lipid peroxidation on human SC. This methodology may be used as a quality control tool to determine ex vivo the percentage of the LPO inhibition on human SC for a variety of antioxidants topically applied.

Skin delivery of antioxidant surfactants based on gallic acid and hydroxytyrosol

The aim of this study has been to investigate the dermal absorption profile of the antioxidant compounds gallic acid and hydroxytyrosol as well as their derivatives, hexanoate (hexyl gallate and hydroxytyrosol hexanoate) and octanoate (octyl gallate and octanoate derivative) alkyl esters (antioxidant surfactants). Previously, the scavenging capacity of these compounds, expressed as efficient dose ED50, has also determined.

Lamellar rearrangement of internal lipids from human hair

The internal lipids were extracted from untreated hair without surface lipids. Liposomes were formed with the internal lipids at different hydration levels to determine the organization of these lipids and the influence of the water content on the lamellar structure of the hair fibres by X-ray Scattering (SAXS). Two structures of hair lipids were observed at 4.5 and approximately 9.0 nm with a different behaviour as a function of water content: the largest bilayer being the one that showed a capacity to retain water inside its structure. SAXS was also applied directly to three samples: a packed swatch of hair fibres at 60% RH, fibres soaked in water and delipidized fibres. Only the lamella at 9.0 nm was slightly affected by water content. Moreover, there was a small diminution in intensity probably due to a high permeability of wet fibres which could give rise to a disorder of the lipid structure. These two lamellar rearrangements are probably made up of lipids with a different and specific hydrophilic/hydrophobic balance.

Application of internal wool lipids to hair

Purpose: Hair lipids can contribute to physicochemical phenomena such as diffusion, cell cohesion and mechanical strength, although lipids occur at much lower levels (1–6% dry weight) than proteins (>90%).Hair lipids can be diminished by hair washing and submission to chemical treatments. Studies have shown that internal wool lipids (IWL) resemble those membranes of other keratinic tissues such as human hair or stratum corneum.