M. Martí

Dyeing Wool at Low Temperatures: New Method Using Liposomes

Dye exhaustion profiles are determined at different times and temperatures in Lanaset dyeing processes in the presence or absence of sodium sulphate using a commercial liposome. Ecotrans W-8814, and other low-temperature auxiliaries such as Valsol LTA-N and Baylan NT. The contamination load of the final dye baths is evaluated to determine the environmental impact of this new low-temperature dyeing process. Ecotrans W-8814 exerts a marked retardant influence on dye exhaustion at temperatures lower than 70°C, favoring a uniform final color of the wool fibers. The presence of sodium sulphate can be avoided since the liposome vesicles assume the role of retarding agent. The optimal final time and temperature are 1 hour and 85°C at a liquor ratio of 1:50. However, the same dye exhaustions for the three auxiliaries, 98% (for Lanaset Red G) and 80% (for Lanaset Yellow 2R), are obtained at 80°C at a 1:25 liquor ratio. Values of the chemical oxygen demand corresponding to the residual dyebaths with the three auxiliaries demonstrate the lower contamination load associated with the liposomes.

Photodamage determination of human hair.

Sunlight on human hair causes photo-degradation. This results in bleaching due to melanin oxidation through free radicals, and induces keratin impairment. Protein degradation, tryptophan degradation, lipidic peroxidation and electron paramagnetic resonance can be used to evaluate proteic and lipidic photodecomposition and free radical formation in hair fibres subjected to antioxidant action and different UV intensities. All these methodologies have been optimised to determine protein, lipid and melanin degradation in hair subjected to different UV intensities.

Optimizing a Wool Dyeing Process with an Azoic 1:2 Metal Complex Dye Using Commercially Available Liposomes

We investigate the application of a commercially available phosphatidylcholine li posome suspension of defined size (about 100 nm) as a carrier for the azoic metal complex 1:2 dye Lanaset Yellow 2R to untreated wool fibers at the pilot plant level. To explore the influence of the experimental conditions on the dyeing process and on dyed yarn properties, we use a Box and Behnken factorial design for three variables. From this optimization study, we conclude that commercially available liposomes are suitable for dyeing wool at lower temperatures and shorter times than those needed in conventional industrial wool dyeing. Thus, wool may be dyed at 80°C using liposomes at 1 -2% owf with satisfactory dye exhaustion and fixation levels and good mechanical properties and handle. The main novelty of this procedure is the use of commercial liposomes as a simple dyebath additive. Increasing liposome concentrations in the dyebath improve dye exhaustion on the fibers at high temperatures, but dye fixation at these temperatures is independent of liposome concentration. depending instead on dye concentration. Liposomes also improve the leveling effect of the dye compared to that with conventional auxiliaries in all cases. Although liposome concentration does not significantly affect yarn mechanical properties, there is an optimal liposome concen tration that improves handle (yarn-to-yarn friction ).

Drug release system of ibuprofen in PCL-microspheres

Today, the technology of microencapsulation of active principles is on top of biomedical advances, because through it we can solve many of the problems caused by current methods of taking medication. Active principle microencapsulation not only solves the problems of drug intake but also controls its dosage. In this study was carried out the development of a protocol for the microencapsulation of ibuprofen by solvent evaporation method. A subsequent application of those microencapsulates to biofunctional textile substrates (cotton, polyamide, acrylic, and polyester) using a finishing process, and finally a study of the release of active principle in two different media (deionized water and physiological serum) has been carried out using samples of the treated fabrics that were submerged into a thermostatized vessel at semi-infinite bath conditions. The determination of active principles released to the bath was determined by a UV spectrophotometer. These experimental results have been analyzed and evaluated, and have therefore allowed to define a controlled drug release system by Fickian diffusion in different media.

Keratins and lipids in ethnic hair

Human hair has an important and undeniable relevance in society due to its important role in visual appearance and social communication. Hair is mainly composed of structural proteins, mainly keratin and keratin associated proteins and lipids. Herein, we report a comprehensive study of the content and distribution of the lipids among ethnic hair, African, Asian and Caucasian hair. More interestingly, we also report the study of the interaction between those two main components of hair, specifically, the influence of the hair internal lipids in the structure of the hair keratin. This was achieved by the use of a complete set of analytical tools, such as thin layer chromatography‐flame ionization detector, X‐ray analysis, molecular dynamics simulation and confocal microscopy. The experimental results indicated different amounts of lipids on ethnic hair compositions and higher percentage of hair internal lipids in African hair. In this type of hair, the axial diffraction of keratin was not observed in X‐ray analysis, but after hair lipids removal, the keratin returned to its typical packing arrangement. In molecular dynamic simulation, lipids were shown to intercalate dimers of keratin, changing its structure. From those results, we assume that keratin structure may be influenced by higher concentration of lipids in African hair.

Skin delivery of caffeine contained in biofunctional textiles

Biofunctional textiles are materials with new properties and added value. In this work, emphasis was placed on the release capacity of the active principle (caffeine) from the formulation or from the biofunctional textile. In addition, a new in vitro methodology of percutaneous absorption was designed to demonstrate the delivery of encapsulated caffeine from the biofunctional textile to the different skin layers. In the first step, permeation studies through a nylon membrane were performed and the release capacity of caffeine present in the samples was quantified. In the second step, it was possible to detect the presence of caffeine in the different layers of the skin, while maintaining a close contact between the biofunctional textile and the skin by using pressure during the percutaneous absorption test. The new system is satisfactory for measuring the pass of the active principle from the biofunctional textile to the different skin layers.

Phosphatidilcholine Liposomes as Vehicles for Disperse Dyes for Dyeing Polyester/Wool Blends

This study describes the role of liposomes as carriers in dyeing polyester/wool blends with disperse dyes. Dye exhaustion and bonding on polyester/wool samples are studied under different experimental conditions—the liposome amount, the dye amount, and the temperature—to achieve optimal conditions. The results are compared with those obtained with and without conventional dyeing auxiliary products. Although bath exhaustion is higher in the presence of commercial carriers, the dye bonded in creases markedly in the presence of liposomes in the two fibers. The role played by liposomes in polyester/wool blend dyeing can lead to a new strategy for this process.

Antioxidative effects and percutaneous absorption of five polyphenols.

A new strategy was designed to evaluate the antioxidant effectiveness of five topically applied polyphenols following skin penetration profiles. The antioxidants were the following polyphenol derivatives: epicatechin, resveratrol, rutin, quercetin, and trolox, which was used as the reference antioxidant. The hydrophilic/lipophilic character of these compounds was evaluated, and their antioxidant activity was measured by the DPPH method. The percutaneous absorption of these polyphenols was obtained by an in vitro methodology using porcine skin biopsies. This methodology involves the quantification of the antioxidants present in each specific skin layer to evaluate antioxidant effectiveness. The antioxidant activity in each skin layer was also determined by the DPPH method. The results indicated that lipophilic antioxidants (epicatechin, resveratrol, quercetin, and trolox) penetrated deeper into the skin layers, whereas a more hydrophilic compound, rutin, remained on the skin surface. The antioxidant evaluation of each skin compartment suggested that resveratrol and rutin were the most effective topically applied compounds in view of their antioxidant activity and their skin penetration profile.

Ceramides Extracted from Wool: Pilot Plant Solvent Extraction

Ceramides extracted from wool fibers have proved to be beneficial in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations in the treatment and care of skin and human hair. This work sought to obtain internal wool lipid extract enriched in ceramides at pilot plant level without causing significant damage to the wool fiber. To this end, two extraction methodologies were performed using two solvents — acetone and methanol. Analyses of wool extracts were performed by thin layer chromatography coupled to an automated ionization detector, and chemical and mechanical evaluations of extracted wool were carried out. Larger amounts of ceramides were obtained when wool fibers were extracted with methanol than with acetone with some modifications of the fiber properties. This lipid extract could be a by-product with a high added value for the wool industry.

Skin delivery of antioxidant surfactants based on gallic acid and hydroxytyrosol

The aim of this study has been to investigate the dermal absorption profile of the antioxidant compounds gallic acid and hydroxytyrosol as well as their derivatives, hexanoate (hexyl gallate and hydroxytyrosol hexanoate) and octanoate (octyl gallate and octanoate derivative) alkyl esters (antioxidant surfactants). Previously, the scavenging capacity of these compounds, expressed as efficient dose ED50, has also determined.