Jose Luis Parra

Ceramides and skin function.

Ceramides are the major lipid constituent of lamellar sheets present in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. These lamellar sheets are thought to provide the barrier property of the epidermis. It is generally accepted that the intercellular lipid domain is composed of approximately equimolar concentrations of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. Ceramides are a structurally heterogeneous and complex group of sphingolipids containing derivatives of sphingosine bases in amide linkage with a variety of fatty acids. Differences in chain length, type and extent of hydroxylation, saturation etc. are responsible for the heterogeneity of the epidermal sphingolipids.It is well known that ceramides play an essential role in structuring and maintaining the water permeability barrier function of the skin. In conjunction with the other stratum corneum lipids, they form ordered structures. An essential factor is the physical state of the lipid chains in the nonpolar regions of the bilayers. The stratum corneum intercellular lipid lamellae, the aliphatic chains in the ceramides and the fatty acids are mostly straight long-chain saturated compounds with a high melting point and a small polar head group. This means that at physiological temperatures, the lipid chains are mostly in a solid crystalline or gel state, which exhibits low lateral diffusional properties and is less permeable than the state of liquid crystalline membranes, which are present at higher temperatures.The link between skin disorders and changes in barrier lipid composition, especially in ceramides, is difficult to prove because of the many variables involved. However, most skin disorders that have a diminished barrier function present a decrease in total ceramide content with some differences in the ceramide pattern.Formulations containing lipids identical to those in skin and, in particular, some ceramide supplementation could improve disturbed skin conditions. Incomplete lipid mixtures yield abnormal lamellar body contents, and disorder intercellular lamellae, whereas complete lipid mixtures result in normal lamellar bodies and intercellular bilayers. The utilization of physiological lipids according to these parameters have potential as new forms of topical therapy for dermatoses. An alternative strategy to improving barrier function by topical application of the various mature lipid species is to enhance the natural lipid-synthetic capability of the epidermis through the topical delivery of lipid precursors.

Enzymatic acylation of di- and trisaccharides with fatty acids: choosing the appropriate enzyme, support and solvent

Enzymatic synthesis of fatty acid esters of di- and trisaccharides is limited by the fact that most biological catalysts are inactivated by the polar solvents (e.g. dimethylsulfoxide, dimethylformamide) where these carbohydrates are soluble. This article reviews the methodologies developed to overcome this limitation, namely those involving control over the reaction medium, the enzyme and the support. We have proposed the use of mixtures of miscible solvents (e.g. dimethylsulfoxide and 2-methyl-2-butanol) as a general strategy to acylate enzymatically hydrophilic substrates. We observed that decreasing the hydrophobicity of the medium (i.e. lowering the percentage of DMSO) the molar ratio sucrose diesters versus sucrose monoesters can be substantially enhanced. The different regioselectivity exhibited by several lipases and proteases makes feasible to synthesise different positional isomers, whose properties may vary considerably. In particular, the lipase from Thermomyces lanuginosus displays a notable selectivity for only one hydroxyl group in the acylation of sucrose, maltose, leucrose and maltotriose, compared with lipase from Candida antarctica. We have examined three immobilisation methods (adsorption on polypropylene, covalent coupling to Eupergit C, and silica-granulation) for sucrose acylation catalysed by T. lanuginosus lipase. The morphology of the support affected significantly the reaction rate and/or the selectivity of the process.

Direct formation of mixed micelles in the solubilization of phospholipid liposomes by Triton X-100

The vesicle to micelle transition which results in the interaction of the Triton X‐100 surfactant with phosphatidylcholine vesicles was studied by means of dynamic light scattering (at different reading angles) and by freeze‐fracture electron microscopy techniques. Vesicle solubilization was produced by the direct formation of mixed micelles without the formation of complex intermediate aggregates. Thus, vesicle to micelle transformation was mainly governed by the progressive formation of mixed micelles within the bilayer. A subsequent separation of these micelles from the liposome surface (vesicle perforation by the formation of surfactant‐stabilized holes on the vesicle surface) led to a complete solubilization of liposomes.

Surface-active properties of lipophilic antioxidants tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol fatty acid esters: a potential explanation for the nonlinear hypothesis of the antioxidant activity in oil-in-water emulsions.

Our group has recently observed a nonlinear tendency in antioxidant capacity of different hydroxytyrosol fatty acid esters in fish oil-in-water emulsions, where a maximum of antioxidant efficiency appeared for hydroxytyrosol octanoate. These results appear to disagree with the antioxidant polar paradox. Because the physical location of the antioxidants in an oil-water interface has been postulated as an important factor in explaining this behavior, we have prepared a series of tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol fatty acid esters with different chain length and studied their surface-active properties in water, because these physicochemical parameters could be directly related to the preferential placement at the interface. We have found that tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol fatty acid esters are relevant surfactants when the right hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is attained and, in some cases, as efficient as emulsifiers commonly used in industry, such as Brij 30 or Tween 20. Moreover, a nonlinear dependency of surfactant effectiveness is observed with the increase in chain length of the lipophilic antioxidants. This tendency seems to fit quite well with the reported antioxidant activity in emulsions, and the best antioxidant of the series (hydroxytyrosol octanoate) is also a very effective surfactant. This potential explanation of the nonlinear hypothesis will help in the rational design of antioxidants used in oil-in-water emulsions.

The inhibitory effect of some amphoteric surfactants on the irritation potential of alkylsulphates.

The physico‐chemical and biological properties of an amphoteric/anionic system and its behaviour against a proteinic support have been thoroughly investigated. A considerable inhibition of adsorption of SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate) on human callus caused by the presence of definite amounts of AABet (alkyl‐amido‐betaines) in the treatment bath is observed. These physico‐chemical results are in agreement with those obtained by some in vivo biological tests. A mechanism of the process via the formation of mixed micelles is postulated emphasizing the stability of such systems as a function of pH, the influence of the chain length of the amphoteric surfactant and the molar relative ratio SLS/AABet. Consequently, our work offers the possibility of a wide applicability of the synergic mixtures of both types of surfactants to inhibit considerably skin irritation of cosmetic finished products.

The Effect of Liposomes on Skin Barrier Structure

The present work deals with the ‘in vivo’ stripping technique to evaluate the percutaneous absorption of sodium fluorescein (NaFl) vehiculized in two different liposome preparations formed by phosphatidylcholine (PC) and lipids mimicking the stratum corneum (SC; ceramides, cholesterol, palmitic acid and cholesteryl sulphate), respectively. Furthermore, the possible effect of these vesicles on the SC lipid alkyl chain conformational order were evaluated at different depths of SC by non-invasive biophysical techniques: Corneometer, Tewameter and especially ATR-FTIR. The results of NaFl percutaneous absorption indicate the highest penetration in the case of incorporation in PC liposomes, which could be related to the increase in SC lipid disorder detected by ATR-FTIR, i.e. a decrease in skin barrier function. On the other hand, SC lipid liposomes have been shown to have a higher affinity for SC owing to the high amount of NaFl found in this layer, suggesting a greater reservoir capacity of SC when similar lipid composition formulation is applied. A lipid order increase is observed by infrared spectroscopy, when these types of liposomes are topically applied, resulting in a strong barrier effect. These results could be useful in designing specific liposomal topical applications.

Photodamage determination of human hair.

Sunlight on human hair causes photo-degradation. This results in bleaching due to melanin oxidation through free radicals, and induces keratin impairment. Protein degradation, tryptophan degradation, lipidic peroxidation and electron paramagnetic resonance can be used to evaluate proteic and lipidic photodecomposition and free radical formation in hair fibres subjected to antioxidant action and different UV intensities. All these methodologies have been optimised to determine protein, lipid and melanin degradation in hair subjected to different UV intensities.

Barrier function of intact and impaired skin: percutaneous penetration of caffeine and salicylic acid

Backgroundu2002 Normally, percutaneous absorption tests are carried out using skin biopsies for an apparent and acceptable physiological condition. However, under different pathological conditions, the stratum corneum (SC) barrier function is impaired.

Cosmetic effectiveness of topically applied hydrolysed keratin peptides and lipids derived from wool

Background/purpose: Skin moisturisation, elasticity, feel and appearance can all be improved through the topical application of protein hydrolysates. Recent studies suggest that supplementing intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum can enhance the functioning of the skin.

Influence of the fluidity of liposome compositions on percutaneous absorption.

The penetration into the stratum corneum of fluorescein, as the acid form or as a sodium salt, encapsulated in liposomes formed by liquid- or gel-state phospholipids, with or without cholesterol, was investigated in humans by the stripping method. Liposomes prepared by extrusion were applied to the forearms of healthy human volunteers and 30 min later, strippings were performed. Fluorescein was extracted and determined by spectrofluorimetry. The skin penetration of sodium fluorescein was higher from fluid liposomes (phosphatidylcholine) than from rigid liposomes (hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine), but it was independent of the content of cholesterol. It seems that the liquid-crystalline state of the lipids is the main aspect involved in the fluidity of the liposome bilayer itself as well as in the interaction with the lipids of the stratum corneum. The similar enhanced penetration behavior obtained for unsaturated liposomes containing sodium or acid fluorescein seems to support the hypothesis of a previous destruction of the vesicles during its passage through the lipid intercellular pathway in the stratum corneum.