Francesco Barbariol

Observation of Extreme Sea Waves in a Space–Time Ensemble

AbstractIn this paper, an observational space–time ensemble of sea surface elevations is investigated in search of the highest waves of the sea state. Wave data were gathered by means of a stereo camera system, which was installed on top of a fixed oceanographic platform located in the Adriatic Sea (Italy). Waves were measured during a mature sea state with an average wind speed of 11 m s−1. By examining the space–time ensemble, the 3D wave groups have been isolated while evolving in the 2D space and grabbed “when and where” they have been close to the apex of their development, thus exhibiting large surface displacements. The authors have selected the groups displaying maximal crest height exceeding the threshold adopted to define rogue waves in a time record, that is, 1.25 times the significant wave height (Hs). The records at the spatial positions where such large crests occurred have been analyzed to derive the empirical distributions of crest and wave heights, which have been compared against standar...

Space–Time Wave Extremes: The Role of Metocean Forcings

AbstractWave observations and modeling have recently demonstrated that wave extremes of short-crested seas are poorly predicted by statistics of time records. Indeed, the highest waves pertain to wave groups at focusing that have space–time dynamics. Therefore, the statistical prediction of extremes of short-crested sea states should rely on the multidimensional random wave fields’ assumption. To adapt wave extreme statistics to the space–time domain, theoretical models using parameters of the directional wave spectrum have been recently developed. In this paper, the influence of metocean forcings (wind conditions, ambient current, and bottom depth) on these parameters and hence on wave extremes is studied with a twofold strategy. First, parametric spectral formulations [Pierson–Moskowitz and Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) frequency spectra with cos2 directional distribution function] are considered to represent the dependence of wave extremes upon wind speed, fetch, and space domain size. Afterwa...

Stochastic Space-Time Extremes of Wind Sea States: Validation and Modeling

Damages and accidents occurred to offshore structures and routing ships raise questions about adequacy of conventional time domain analysis of short-crested sea waves. Indeed, experimental and field evidence showed that during such wave states, typical of storms, the maximum sea surface elevation gathered at a single point in time, i.e. the time extreme, tends to underestimate the actual maximum that occurs over a surrounding area, i.e. the space-time extreme. Recently, stochastic models for the prediction of multidimensional Gaussian random fields maxima, e.g. Piterbarg’s theorem and Adler and Taylor’s approach, have been applied to ocean waves statistics, permitting to extend extreme value analysis from time to space-time domain. In this paper, we present analytical and numerical approaches aimed at supporting applicability of such models, which is limited by the knowledge of directional spectrum parameters. Firstly, we validate stochastic models against stereo-photogrammetric measurements of surface wave fields. Then, we investigate the dependence of space-time extremes upon physical parameters (wind speed, fetch length, current speed) in the context of analytical spectral formulations, i.e. Pierson-Moskowitz and JONSWAP, and by using spectral numerical wave modeling. To this end, we developed two sets of closed formulae and a modified version of the SWAN model to calculate parameters of analytical and arbitrary directional spectra, respectively. Finally, we present preliminary results of a 3 years Mediterranean Sea hindcast as a first step towards operational forecasts of space-time extremes.Copyright

Towards an Operational Stereo System for Directional Wave Measurements From Moving Platforms

Stereo video imaging of water surface has become an effective instrumentation to gather wind waves 3-D data from small to medium range spatial scales. Indeed, recent applications of stereo techniques provided new insights of space-time distributions of sea wave elevations, small scale wave statistics, and directional wave spectra. Like most photogrammetric applications, an accurate calibration of the optical acquisition machinery is required to provide a low-noise, precise and reliable surface reconstruction adequate to extract meaningful wavy surfaces. However, for practical open field applications, there is a strong interest to provide a calibration procedure apt to be performed in an uncomfortable environment in which it may be unfeasible to take apart or even physically access the device.Here, we propose a stereo pipeline suitable for 3-D wave measurements from fixed and moving platforms. In particular, within the Wave Acquisition Stereo System (WASS) framework, we contemplated a self-calibration technique for a robust estimation of the stereo extrinsic parameters, a fast dense stereo correspondence algorithm, and a two-step correction of the cameras motion. As for other applications, wave information collected by WASS includes synthetic wave parameters (e.g., significant wave height, wave periods, and directions), wavenumber and frequency-direction spectra, spatial distribution of wave elevations, heights, and lengths.The new pipeline features has been firstly assessed by installing WASS on top of the “Acqua Alta” oceanographic tower in the northern Adriatic Sea (Italy) and comparing WASS measurements against those acquired at the tower with reference instrumentation. Afterwards, the stereo system has been mounted on board the R/V “Urania” during a cruise on April 2013 in the southern Adriatic Sea. During the cruise, to correct for ship’s motion, WASS has been synchronized to the motion unit used for the vessel’s navigation. For validation, sea wave state gathered by WASS has been compared to theoretical models and results from the numerical wave model SWAN.Results presented show that the accuracy of 3-D waves provided by the new algorithms is comparable to that of other WASS applications, although significantly reducing the installation effort and the computational time by more than one order of magnitude. Additionally, encompassing for ship’s motion makes stereo system a perspective instrumentation for operational wave measuring from research and opportunity vessels. The manuscript is completed by a discussion on the limitations and troubleshooting related to the proposed pipeline.Copyright

Numerical modeling of space-time wave extremes using WAVEWATCH III

A novel implementation of parameters estimating the space-time wave extremes within the spectral wave model WAVEWATCH III (WW3) is presented. The new output parameters, available in WW3 version 5.16, rely on the theoretical model of Fedele (J Phys Oceanogr 42(9):1601-1615, 2012) extended by Benetazzo et al. (J Phys Oceanogr 45(9):2261–2275, 2015) to estimate the maximum second-order nonlinear crest height over a given space-time region. In order to assess the wave height associated to the maximum crest height and the maximum wave height (generally different in a broad-band stormy sea state), the linear quasi-determinism theory of Boccotti (2000) is considered. The new WW3 implementation is tested by simulating sea states and space-time extremes over the Mediterranean Sea (forced by the wind fields produced by the COSMO-ME atmospheric model). Model simulations are compared to space-time wave maxima observed on March 10th, 2014, in the northern Adriatic Sea (Italy), by a stereo camera system installed on-board the “Acqua Alta” oceanographic tower. Results show that modeled space-time extremes are in general agreement with observations. Differences are mostly ascribed to the accuracy of the wind forcing and, to a lesser extent, to the approximations introduced in the space-time extremes parameterizations. Model estimates are expected to be even more accurate over areas larger than the mean wavelength (for instance, the model grid size).

WASS: An open-source pipeline for 3D stereo reconstruction of ocean waves

Abstract Stereo 3D reconstruction of ocean waves is gaining more and more popularity in the oceanographic community and industry. Indeed, recent advances of both computer vision algorithms and computer processing power now allow the study of the spatio-temporal wave field with unprecedented accuracy, especially at small scales. Even if simple in theory, multiple details are difficult to be mastered for a practitioner, so that the implementation of a sea-waves 3D reconstruction pipeline is in general considered a complex task. For instance, camera calibration, reliable stereo feature matching and mean sea-plane estimation are all factors for which a well designed implementation can make the difference to obtain valuable results. For this reason, we believe that the open availability of a well tested software package that automates the reconstruction process from stereo images to a 3D point cloud would be a valuable addition for future researches in this area. We present WASS ( http://www.dais.unive.it/wass ), an Open-Source stereo processing pipeline for sea waves 3D reconstruction. Our tool completely automates all the steps required to estimate dense point clouds from stereo images. Namely, it computes the extrinsic parameters of the stereo rig so that no delicate calibration has to be performed on the field. It implements a fast 3D dense stereo reconstruction procedure based on the consolidated OpenCV library and, lastly, it includes set of filtering techniques both on the disparity map and the produced point cloud to remove the vast majority of erroneous points that can naturally arise while analyzing the optically complex nature of the water surface. In this paper, we describe the architecture of WASS and the internal algorithms involved. The pipeline workflow is shown step-by-step and demonstrated on real datasets acquired at sea.

Unseeded large scale PIV measurements corrected for the capillary-gravity wave dynamics

Large scale particle image velocimetry (LSPIV) has become a reliable and accurate technique to measure water surface velocity field in open channels and rivers. The LSPIV technique is based on a camera view framing the water surface, complemented with image-processing methods to compute water surface displacements between consecutive frames. Using LSPIV, high flow velocities, such as flood conditions, are accurately measured, whereas determinations of low flow regimes is more challenging, especially in the absence of floating material carried by the stream. In fact, in unseeded conditions, typical surface feature dynamics must be taken into account. Indeed, besides surface structures advected by the current, capillary-gravity waves propagate on the surface, with their own speed and direction. In this study, the discrimination between these phenomena is discussed, providing a new method to distinguish and to correct unseeded LSPIV measurements with capillary-gravity wave dynamics. Current velocity obtained with such a correction at low flow speed in an artificial channel and in a natural river is in fair agreement with reference observations indicating the need of accounting for the speed and direction of capillary-gravity waves on the surface to obtain reliable measurements of the current vector field, and, as a further result, of the flow discharge over a river cross-section.

Multi-view horizon-driven sea plane estimation for stereo wave imaging on moving vessels

In the last few years we faced an increased popularity of stereo imaging as an effective tool to investigate wind sea waves at short and medium scales. Given the advances of computer vision techniques, the recovery of a scattered point-cloud from a sea surface area is nowadays a well consolidated technique producing excellent results both in terms of wave data resolution and accuracy. Nevertheless, almost all the subsequent analyses tasks, from the recovery of directional wave spectra to the estimation of significant wave height, are bound to two limiting conditions. First, wave data are required to be aligned to the mean sea plane. Second, a uniform distribution of 3D point samples is assumed. Since the stereo-camera rig is placed tilted with respect to the sea surface, perspective distortion do not allow these conditions to be met. Errors due to this problem are even more challenging if the optical instrumentation is mounted on a moving vessel, so that the mean sea plane cannot be simply obtained by averaging data from multiple subsequent frames. We address the first problem with two main contributions. First, we propose a novel horizon estimation technique to recover the attitude of a moving stereo rig with respect to the sea plane. Second, an effective weighting scheme is described to account for the non-uniform sampling of the scattered data in the estimation of the sea-plane distance. The interplay of the two allows us to provide a precise point cloud alignment without any external positioning sensor or rig viewpoint pre-calibration. The advantages of the proposed technique are evaluated throughout an experimental section spanning both synthetic and real-world scenarios. HighlightsWe propose an optical horizon estimation technique to recover the attitude of a moving stereo rig with respect to the sea plane.Projective distortion is corrected to account for the non-uniform distribution of the reconstructed point cloud.The alignment of each sea surface is improved without using external positioning sensors.