Yoshiaki Kawata

Tsunami run-up heights of the 2003 Tokachi-oki earthquake

Tsunami height survey was conducted immediately after the 2003 Tokachi-oki earthquake. Results of the survey show that the largest tsunami height was 4 m to the east of Cape Erimo, around Bansei-onsen, and locally at Mabiro. The results also show that the tsunami height distribution of the 2003 Tokachi-oki earthquake is clearly different from that of the 1952 Tokachi-oki earthquake, suggesting the different source areas of the 1952 and 2003 Tokachioki earthquakes. Numerical simulation of tsunami is carried out using the slip distribution estimated by Yamanaka and Kikuchi (2003). The overall pattern of the observed tsunami height distribution along the coast is explained by the computed ones although the observed tsunami heights are slightly smaller. Large later phase observed at the tide gauge in Urakawa is the edge wave propagating from Cape Erimo along the west coast of the Hidaka area.

Damage to coastal villages due to the 1992 Flores Island earthquake tsunami

A field survey of the 1992 Flores Island earthquake tsunami was conducted during December 29, 1992 to January 5, 1993 along the north coast of the eastern part of Flores Island. We visited over 40 villages, measured tsunami heights, and interviewed the inhabitants. It was clarified that the first wave attacked the coast within five minutes at most of the surveyed villages. The crust was uplifted west of the Cape of Batumanuk, and subsided east of it. In the residential area of Wuring, which is located on a sand spit with ground height of 2 meters, most wooden houses built on stilts collapsed and 87 people were killed even though the tsunami height reached only 3.2 meters. In the two villages on Babi Island, the tsunami swept away all wooden houses and killed 263 of 1,093 inhabitants. Tsunami height at Riang-Kroko village on the northeastern end of Flores Island reached 26.2 meters and 137 of the 406 inhabitants were killed by the tsumani. Evidence of landslides was detected at a few points on the coast of Hading Bay, and the huge tsunami was probably formed by earthquake-induced landslides. The relationship between tsunami height and mortality was checked for seven villages. The efficiencies of trees arranged in front of coastal villages, and coral reefs in dissipating the tsunami energy are discussed.

Damage Caused by the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami on the Southwestern Coast of Sri Lanka

The Indian Ocean Tsunami on 26 December 2004 affected Sri Lanka, which is located 1,700 km from the epicenter. A field investigation was conducted along the southwest coast of Sri Lanka to measure tsunami trace heights, investigate the damage, and obtain correct information on the tsunami. The results of the field survey showed that the tsunami arrived on the southwest coasts two and a half hours or more after the earthquake. The average tsunami height was 5 m along the southwest coast and tsunami trace heights of 10 m were found locally. The tsunami destroyed a number of wooden and brick houses, damaged port and harbor facilities and coastal railways, washed away many vessels, and scoured the foundations of coastal structures. The port and harbor facilities such as the breakwaters, and rigid coastal houses continuing along the coast reduced the tsunami and lessened the damage that it caused. Hydraulic experiments were conducted to investigate the characteristics of tsunami flooding on flat or declining ground, since it was clarified by the field survey that the severer tsunami damage was caused at the place where the coastal land inclines inland. The experimental results show that the pressure acting on the structure on the sloping bottom was at least twice that of the flat bottom under the experimental conditions.

LOCAL SCOUR AROUND CYLINDRICAL PILES DUE TO WAVES AND CURRENTS COMBINED

The Labrador Sea Extreme Waves Experiment (LEWEX), is an international basic research programme concerned with full-scale measurements, analysis, modelling and simulation in test basins of 3-dimensional seas. The research is carried out in order to assess the significance of 3-dimensional sea states in engineering applications. The first phase of the programme full scale wave measurements in the North Atlantic Ocean was performed at a site and time that had a high probability of encountering severe sea states. The present publication shows examples of measured bi-modal directional sea spectra obtained with the WAVESCAN buoy and directional sea spectra measured with an airborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR). Directional spectra of gravity waves are obtained with the SAR both in open waters and below an ice cover. Further work is needed in order to verify SAR-measurements with in-situ observations. In-situ measured directional spectra are also compared with hindcast spectra from the 3G-WAM model. Hindcast significant wave heights were found to be lower than the in-situ measurements.The littoral drift model developed at DHI and ISVA, see Deigaard et al. (1986b) has been extended to include the effects of the irregularity of the waves, of a coastal current and a wind acting on the surf zone. Further, a mathematical model to simulate the near-shore current pattern along a barred coast with rip channels has been developed. The influence on the littoral drift of the irregularity of waves, wind, coastal current, and rip channels is discussed. It is concluded that irregularity of waves and presence of rip channels must be considered while coastal current and wind action are of minor importance.At present, the Prodhoe Bay oil field in Alaska contributes a substantial amount of the domestic oil production of the United States. Oil is also expected to be present on the continental shelf of Alaska, and it is estimated that approximatedly 28 percent of the total U. S. reserve is located beneath the shallow ice covered seas of the Alaskan continental shelf. To expolre and to exploit these oil rich resources, engineers are confronted with hostile oceanographic conditions such as high tides, waves, strong currents and sea ice. The same area is also rich in fishery resources. Being one of the most productive fishing grounds in the nothern Pacific, the potential ecological impact due to an oil spill is of a major concern. This paper describes the methologies used for the development of a modeling system for the oil risk analysis. The system is designed with generality in mind so it can be used for other coastal areas. The development of three dimensional models used in the modeling system described here have been published in the earlier International Coastal Engineering Conferences (Liu and Leendertse, 1982, 1984, 1986) and a report published recently by RAND (Liu and Leendertse, 1987). In the oil-spill risk analysis, these three dimensional hydrodynamic models are coupled to a two-dimensional stochastic weather model and an oil weathering model.The two projects (LUBIATOWO 79 and LUBIATOWO 86) were aimed at study pore pressure behaviour in natural sand bed in the coastal zone of the Baltic sea under the action of storm waves. During both projects, the wave induced pore pressures at the various levels in the sea bed were measured. The collected data were used to verify the applicability of the various theoretical approaches. In the conclusion, the range of the application of the particular analytical method is given.The rapid recession of the shingle bank of Hurst Beach (up to 3.5m/yr) makes it an excellent natural laboratory for the study of the factors which influence the stability of shingle beaches. Studies have included: the significance of long period, high energy, swell waves the classification and quantification of overwash processes run-up and seepage characteristics the effect of settlement of the underlying strata and the implications for practices in shingle nourishment. The studies have revealed the distinctive character of shingle beaches as compared with the more fully researched sand beaches. More detailed research on shingle beaches is justified particularly in relation to (i) the run-up characteristics including its interaction with swash cusps and (ii) the influence of the subsidiary sand fraction on the beach characteristics.Environmental assessment, engineering studies and designs were completed for a new 26.5 m3/s seawater intake system in the Persian Gulf. The original intake facility consisted of a curved, 60m breakwater with one end attached to the shoreline, a settling basin immediately adjacent to the shoreline and dredged to a maximum depth of approximately 5m, and a pumphouse structure located on shore such that the seaward wall formed one side of the settling basin. The facility located on an island in the Gulf, which served multiple seawater uses, had experienced both structural and operational problems, the latter consisting principally of excessive ingestion of sediment and seaweed. These factors plus the requirement for additional demands for seawater beyond plant capacity caused the owner to initiate a study of alternative intake systems, produce a design for the most effective solution and construct the new intake system.A two-dimensional wave prediction model suitable for use on personal computers is described. The model requires the twodimensional time-dependent wind field as input. Output consists of wave height, wave period, and wave direction estimates at all grid points on a computational grid representing an enclosed or semi-closed basin. Model predictions compare favorably with observations from a wave research tower in Lake Erie. A formula is provided to estimate how long a model simulation would take on a personal computer given the surface area of the computational domain, the grid size, and the computer clock speed.Cullera Bay is a neritic ecosystem placed on the Spanish Mediterranean Littoral largely influenced by the Jucar River, that brings about lower salinities than surrounding waters, and broad variations of its values. An extensive research, with 9 samplings throughout the year, was carried out, measuring both physical and chemical parameters, and the planktonic communities. The trophic status of the ecosystem, the spatial and temporal variations of the nutrients and the planktonic communities were studied, evaluating the influence of the river loads and the littoral dynamics. Some essential basis to allow a suitable emplacement of waste waters disposals along the Valencian littoral are set up in order to minimize the gradual eutrophication of this coast.In the last two years a whole of studies was realized in order to determine precise solutions to the regeneration of Villajoyosas beach, in the Spanish mediterranean coast. Investigations were carried out to the surrounding coastal areas based in field investigations and laboratory analyses of the beaches materials.

Far-Field Tsunami Potential and a Real-Time Forecast System for the Pacific Using the Inversion Method

Estimating tsunami potential is anessential part of mitigating tsunami disasters. Weproposed a new method to estimate the far-fieldtsunami potential by assuming faultmodels on the Pacific Rim. We find thata tsunami that generates in the areas wherethere is no tsunami in the history can damagethe Japanese coast. This shows that it isimportant to estimate tsunami potential byassuming fault models other than the pastearthquake data.Another important activity to mitigate tsunamidisasters is to provide appropriatewarnings to coastal communities when dangerfrom a tsunami is imminent. We applied anew inversion method using wavelet transformto a part of the real-time tsunami forecastsystem for the Pacific. Because this inversionmethod does not require fault location, it ispossible to analyze a tsunami in real timewithout all seismic information. In order tocheck the usability of the system, anumerical simulation was executed assuming anearthquake at sea off Taiwan. The correlationcoefficient for the estimated initialwaveform to the assumed one was calculatedto be 0.78. It takes 90 min to capturetime-series waveform data from tsunamigauges and 5 sec to estimate the 2-D initialwaveform using the inversion method. After that,it takes 2 minutes to forecast thetsunami heights at the Japanese coast. Since thesum of these times is less than the 105minutes transit time of the tsunami fromTaiwan to Japan, it is possible to give a warningto the residents before the tsunami attacksthe Japanese coast. Comparing the tsunamiheights forecasted by this system with thosecalculated by the fault model, the averageerror was 0.39 m. The average error ofthe arrival time was 0.007 min.

Response of Residents at the Moment of Tsunamis-The 1992 Flores Island Earthquake Tsunami, Indonesia-

The number of loss of lives due to the 1992 Flores island tsunamis was about 1,000. The maximum tsunami runup height 26.2m was measured at Kroko. At Babi island, reflected tsunami with the height of 5 to 7m attached two villages so that every structure was broken and swept away. At Waring, mooring fishing boats were easily carried to the dense-housing areas by tsunamis so that wooden-made houses were swept away by dominos. Through the questionnaire, tsunami characteristics and residents’ behavior are also described. Most residents have no information on tsunamis. After looking at tsunami coming, they run away to safe places. Therefore, the disaster weak such as children and old people might fell victim to the tsunami disaster. As disaster lessons, spread of tsunami information such as local tsunami characteristics and refuge programs are very important to mitigate the damages in tsunami-prone areas.

Flow Strength on Land and Damage of the 1998 Papua New Guinea Tsunami

Runup and inundation data on the sand spits of Sissano lagoon are described with discussions of flow state, current velocity, and degree of damage to houses. Sand erosion data on the sand spits are also described with discussions of their relation to the inundation depth and the current velocity. Laboratory experiments were carried out to confirm the flow state and to discuss effects of vegetation and so on.

APPLICABILITY OF SUB-SAND SYSTEM TO BEACH EROSION CONTROL

More than 150 tests have been analyzed in order to describe the dynamically stable profiles of rock slopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. Relationships between profile parameters and boundary conditions have been established. These relationships have been used to develop a computer program. This program is able to predict the profiles of slopes with an arbitrary shape under varying wave conditions, such as those found in storm surges and during the tidal period.This paper investigates the utility of winds obtainable from a numerical weather prediction model for driving a spectral ocean-wave model in an operational mode. Wind inputs for two operational spectral wave models were analyzed with respect to observed winds at three locations in the Canadian east coast offshore. Also, significant wave heights obtainable from the two spectral models were evaluated against measured wave data at these locations. Based on this analysis, the importance of appropriate wind specification for operational wave analysis and forecasting is demonstrated.

CHARACTERISTICS OF SALTATION OF SAND GRAINS BY WIND

The data for the spectra of wind-generated waves measured in a laboratory tank and in a bay are analyzed using the similarity theory of Kitaigorodski, and the one-dimensional spectra of fetch-limited wind waves are determined from the data. The combined field and laboratory data cover such a wide range of dimensionless fetch F (= gF/u ) as F : 10 ~ 10 . The fetch relations for the growthes of spectral peak frequency u)m and of total energy E of the spectrum are derived from the proposed spectra, which are consistent with those derived directly from the measured spectra.A solution of finite amplitude long waves on constant sloping beaches is obtained by solving the equations of the shallow water theory of the lowest order. Non-linearity of this theory is taken into account, using the perturbation method. Bessel functions involved in the solution are approximated with trigonometric functions. The applicable range of this theory is determined from the two limit conditions caused by the hydrostatic pressure assumption and the trigonometric function approximation of Bessel functions. The shoaling of this finite amplitude long waves on constant sloping beaches is discussed. Especially, the effects of the beach slope on the wave height change and the asymmetric wave profile near the breaking point are examined, which can not be explained by the concept of constancy of wave energy flux based on the theory of progressive waves in uniform depth. These theoretical results are presented graphically, and compared with curves of wave shoaling based on finite amplitude wave theories. On the other hand, the experiments are conducted with respect to the transformation of waves progressing on beaches of three kinds of slopes ( 1/30, 1/2.0 and 1/10 ) . The experimental results are compared with the theoretical curves to confirm the validity of the theory.Measurements of drift were made in a wind and wave facility at different elevations below the mean water level. The drift profiles were obtained for reference wind speeds, Ur = 3.1, 5.7 and 9.6 m/sec. The measurement technique involved tracing the movement of small paper discs which were soaked in water to become neutrally buoyant at the elevation of release. A logarithmic drift profile is proposed. The water shear velocity, U*w, predicts a surface stress, TS = pw U*S, in agreement with that obtained from the wind shear velocity, s = Pa U*li where pa and pw refer to air and water densities, respectively.The paper describes a procedure for obtaining field data on the mean concentration of sediments in combination of waves and currents outside the breaker zone, as well as some results of such measurements. It is assumed that the current turbulence alone is responsible for the maintenance of the concentration profile above a thin layer close to the bottom, in which pick-up of sediments due to wave agitation takes place. This assumption gives a good agreement between field data and calculated concentration profiles.A section of beach on the south coast of England has been under surveillance for five years, from March 1966 until March 1971. During this period, two permeable groynes of the Makepeace Wood type were constructed. Beach cross sectional areas and rates of accretion were compared before and after groyne construction. The groynes caused a buildup in beach levels updrift.The results of model tests, carried out to evaluate the stability of submarine slopes under wave action are presented. A Bentonite clay was sedimented in a glass walled tank 6 feet long by 0.5 feet wide by 2.5 feet deep. The sedimentation and consolidation processes were studied and sediment densities were measured at various depths in the profile. Vane shear strength profiles were also measured afvarious average degrees of consolidation. Plastic markers were placed in the sediment adjacent to a glass wall so that the soil movements under both gravity and wave induced slides could be documented by photography. Dimensional similitude is discussed and the model test data are presented in a dimensionless form. All instabilities were observed to be of the infinite slope type. Analysis of the data shows that wave action is instrumental in initiating downslope mass movements in gently to steeply sloping off-shore sediments. General lack of agreement between the model test results and published theoretical analyses was found but there was close similarity in the depths and form of failure under wave action and under gravity stresses alone. The loss of stability under wave action is analyzed on the concept that failure is gravity controlled and the soil strength is reduced to a value commensurate with gravity sliding by the cyclic shearing stresses imposed by progressive waves. A method of evaluating the stability of prototype slopes using a model test correlation and field vane strength measurements is proposed. INTRODUCTION Instabilities in submarine slopes have been observed or have been inferred over a wide range of slope angles from less than half a degree up to about 30°. These subaqueous landslides are believed to have caused rupture of submarine cables and to have generated many of the geomorphological features on the ocean bottom. There are numerous records describing these landslides but very few publications discuss the application of the principles of soil mechanics to the analysis of the stability of submarine slopes. Associate Professor of Civil Engineering, Queens University at Kingston, Canada 2 Soils Engineer, Geocon Ltd., Toronto, Canada 3 Associate Professor of Civil Engineering, Cornell University, Ithaca, N.Y.Several mathematical models have been lately presented which describe the tidal wave propagation within an estuary. The existing models derived from the method for damped co-oscillating tides are based on sinusoidal wave profile. Meanwhile a tidal wave which moves upstream, generally exhibits a progressive deformation which tends to unbalance the length of time between flood and ebb tides. The actual profile is therefore no longer sinusoidal. Our investigation uses the potential method, and takes into account the wave amplitude which is usually neglected compared with the water depth. Finally, the velocity potential is obtained explicitely, using a double iterative method. Tidal elevation, particle velocities and trajectories are given by the same computer programmed algorithm. Our study shows that l) the phenomenon can be clearly visualized on the theoretical curves and 2) the magnitude of this deformation is inversely proportional to the water depth, becoming significant when the ratio f|/h reaches the critical value of 1/10. Damping and geometrical effects are also considered and the theory was applied to the St.Lawrence Estuary. A partial positive reflection of the incoming tidal wave is assumed at the narrow section near Quebec, whereas a complete negative reflection is assumed at the entrance to Lake St.Peter. The calculated and observed wave profiles, velocity distributions, and phase shifts are in good agreement.A numerical model is presented to describe the hydromechanics of lagoons connected to the ocean by relatively narrow inlets. Because special attention is given to the flushing, all second order terms in the hydrodynamic equations are retained. The study is restricted to lagoons with a onedimensional flow pattern and water of uniform density. In designing a numerical solution to the equations, the inlet equations are regarded as implicit boundary conditions to the equations describing the flow in the lagoon proper. The advantages of this approach are: (1) the size of the computational grid in the lagoon can be chosen independently of the relatively small dimensions of the inlets and (2) the flow at branching inlets (an inlet connecting a lagoon to the ocean such that branching of the inlet flow can occur) still can be described by a one-dimensional tidal model. The predictive capability of the numerical model is confirmed by favorable comparison between measured and computed particle paths and net transport for a series of laboratory experiments. In the experiments a canal of uniform width and depth is freely connected to a tidal basin at one end and at the other end is connected to the same basin by a submerged weir.

THE IN SITU MEASUREMENTS OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND BOTTOM TOPOGRAPHY CHANGES

Tanah Lot Temple is situated in Tabanan Regency - Bali, on the coast of the Indonesian Ocean. Due to continuous wave attack, wind force, and weathering of the rock bank where the Temple stands, abrasion has occured which is more and more threatening the existence of the Temple. Considering that Tanah Lot Temple is a sacred place for the Hindu Balinese people and a place of high cultural value, and also an important tourism, steps to save the Temple are imperative. The Central as well as the Regional Authorities, and also the Bali nese community are very much interested in the effort to keep the Temple intact. Measures have been undertaken to protect both the seaside and land-side banks of the Temple rock bank. This paper only discusses counter measures of the sea —side bank of the Temple.